Amazing caves of Ellora

Over the long weekend I had a chance to visit the amazing Ellora caves as part of a long trip.

The Ellora caves or the Verul Leni as they are known locally are spectacular rock cut caves depicting the Hindu, Buddhist and the Jain faiths, situated in the ancient village of Ellora which is about 30 Kms from Aurangabad in Maharashtra. The coexistence of structures from three different religions serves as a splendid visual representation of the prevalent religious tolerance in India. For this reason and others, the Ellora Caves were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and is known to be the most visited ancient monument in Maharashtra state.

There are 34 caves in total with exquisite sculptures which were carved out of the Charanadri hills (part of the Sahyadri ranges of the Deccan) somewhere between the 6^th and 10^th centuries. It is said that the carving began around 550AD and went on till 1000AD. Auto rickshaws are available to take people from one set of caves to the other as they are situated a bit far from each other. I could cover only about 20 caves in total because of the time crunch and the rain. Access to many part of the caves is restricted due to security and safety issues.

The Buddhist caves, 12 in number (cave-1 to cave-12) are the earliest of these caves dating to around 500AD. They become more and more elaborately decorated as they progress.  Most of these caves except for one Cave-10 were used for study, communal rituals, meditation, as granary or for eating and sleeping.  All these caves have sculptures of seated Buddhas - either holding a lotus or bejeweled or sitting on a throne of sorts. Some caves even had two or three floors but access to these levels was restricted. The pillars are huge and sculpted too.

The Hindu caves, 17 in number (cave-13 to cave-29), have an entirely different style and are said to have been carved between 600AD and 870AD. These caves occupy the central region of the entire cave complex and are grouped around the famous Kailasa Temple (cave-16). The sculptures adorning the walls of these Hindu caves are in complete contrast to the serene and calm Buddhas. They depict events from the Hindu scriptures. All the Hindu caves are dedicated to the Lord Shiva but some caves also have carvings of Vishnu and his various avataars as well.

Ravana trying to lift Mount Kailas with Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi still sitting

Lord Shiva marrying Goddess Parvathi with all the Gods showering blessings

The cave-16 is the most beautifully sculpted of all the caves and is the first cave in sight as you enter the Ellora site. It is known to be the largest single excavation in the world. Infact it is not a cave at all but a magnificent temple carved out of solid rock and is said to represent Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva. Hence the temple is called Kailashnath, Kailash or the Kailasa temple. This temple is a masterpiece in itself and has amazing sculptures, a feat of human genius. This temple is said to have taken 100 years to complete and has some exquisite carvings. Though carved out of a single solid rock, this looks like a free standing structure of typical southern style. The temple exterior has richly carved windows, images of deities from the Hindu scriptures and Mithunas (amorous male and female figures). Most of the deities to the left of the temple entrance are Shaivaites (followers of Lord Shiva) and the deities to the right of the entrance are Vaishnavaites (followers of Lord Vishnu). The courtyard has two huge Dhwajastambas or pillars with the flagstaff and a Nandi mandapa. The temple is two storeyed and the Kailasa temple is on the first level. The lower storey has life size elephants carved which look like they are holding up the temple on their backs.

Cave-16, The Kailasa Temple

Of all the other Hindu caves stretching to the north of cave-16, I found cave-21 called the Rameshwara interesting. It dates to the late 500s and said to be the oldest Hindu cave. It has some fine sculptures of the two main Hindu river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna, two huge door guardians and some sculptures of Mithunas on the balcony walls.

The Jain caves, 5 in number, dating from late 800s and 900s reflect the distinct Jain philosophy and tradition combined with elaborate decorations. They are not as large as the other caves but contain detailed paintings on the ceilings, fragments of which still are visible. I found cave-32 or the Indra Sabha (Lord Indra’s assembly) interesting amongst the Jain caves. The cave has two levels. The bottom level is plain but the upper level has elaborate carvings. There is a fine lotus flower on the ceiling. Two Thirthankaras guard the entrance to the central shrine. To the right is the Gomateshwara who is meditating so deeply in a forest that vines have grown up his legs and animals, snakes and scorpions crawl at his feet.

Lotus carving at the central shrine

Gomateshwara in deep meditation with the forest vines on his legs

The visit to these caves can be enjoyed to the maximum during monsoons when every stream is filled with water and Mother Nature is in full bloom. The Elaganga, the most prominent of the streams is part of the river Godavari. It is in full vigour during the monsoons and the overflowing waters land at the “Sita-ki-nahani” near cave-29.

Waters of the Elaganga flowing into the Sita-ki-nahani near cave-29

It was a really amazing experience but it was disheartening to see that most of the caves were in poor condition as far as maintaining and preserving the sculptures is concerned. Most of the smaller shrines around the Kailasa were empty and many sculptures look ruined. Most of the caves have a bad odour when you enter them because of the bats hanging from the roof of the cave. But thankfully people have not littered the caves or the surroundings and hence it looks neat with Mother Nature forming a lush green background.

Bats hanging on the ceilings